Halloween DIY – Faux Wrought Iron Fence

Halloween is right around the corner. My wife and daughter really have big plans this year for our Halloween decorations. They volunteered me to complete some woodworking projects to help with decorating their Hocus Pocus theme. Of course, I did as was told and got to work. There are three projects that I have completed and will be staging in the front yard either this weekend or the next. For each project, we will have a post on the BLOG, with details of the build, and a video on our YouTube channel demonstrating how it was built. Sorry, husbands, hopefully I’m not setting you up for a “honey do” as well!

The three projects include:

This BLOG post will focus on the faux Wrought Iron Cemetery Fence that I’ll build and use to surround the Halloween Coffin I built.

Cutting and Drilling the Boards

We need to cut the top and bottom boards, 1″ PVC and 1/2″ PVC to assemble the fence. To start off, go ahead and cut two 3′ sections of 1 1/2″ wide board.

Cutting the 1 1/2" boards for the upper and lower portion of the Halloween DIY faux wrought iron fence.

Clamp together the 2 x 3′ by 1 1/2″ boards so they site one over the other. At 2″ from both ends, drill a hole approximately 1 3/8 wide. This is to allow the 1″ tubing to be threaded through the boards. Next, mark you boards on top at 6″ intervals. Drill a 5/8″ hole at each 6″ interval to allow you to thread the 1/2″ tubing through.

Drilling the holes for the tubing to be threaded through the boards for the Halloween DIY faux wrought iron fence.
Cutting the holes in both top and bottom boards to allow tubing to be threaded through.
Drilling the holes for the tubing to be threaded through the top and bottom boards on the Halloween DIY faux wrought iron fence.
utting the holes in both top and bottom boards to allow tubing to be threaded through.

We need to go ahead and drill 1/4″ countersinks into the side of the boards adjacent to the center of the drilled holes where the PVC will be screwed in place.

Drilling the countersinks for the top and bottom board on the Halloween DIY faux wrought iron fence.
Drilling 1/4″ countersinks into top and bottom boards.
Drilling the countersinks on the 3' boards on the top and bottom of the  Halloween DIY faux wrought iron fence.
dDDrilling 1/4″ countersinks into top and bottom boards.

Cutting the PVC Tubing

We need to now cut 2 pieces of the 1″ PVC tubing at 42″ long. These will be the two end pieces.

Cutting the 1" PVC pipe for the side tubing.
Cutting the 2 x 46″ pieces of 1″ tubing.

Next, let’s cut the 5 pieces of 1/2″ tubing anywhere from 34″ to 38″. We want this to vary to give it a feel of being imperfect and old.

Cutting the 1/2" tubing used for the middle rails on the Halloween DIY faux wrought iron fence.
Cutting the 1/2″ PVC tubing for the inner rungs of the wrought iron fence.

Assembling the Fence

Lay the two 36″ boards out on the ground. Thread through the two 1″ PVC pieces through the holes at both ends. Mark 6″ from the end of both. Place the board at the mark and use screws to drill into wood board and PVC.

Screwing the 1" PVC pipe to the top and bottom boards.
Screwing in the 1″ end tubing pieces.

Next, thread the 5 x 1/2″ tubing pieces through the five holes in the wood boards and secure with a screw.

Screwing the 1/2" tubing to the top and bottom boards.
Screwing in the 1/2″ tubing pieces in a staggered and imperfect manner.
Screwing the 1/2" tubing to the top and bottom boards.
Screwing in the 1/2″ tubing pieces in a staggered and imperfect manner.
Completed assembly and awaiting black spray paint to finish.
Completed Assembly without Black Paint

Completed Assembly of Faux Wrought Iron Fence

Two 3' sections of Halloween DIY faux wrought iron fencing with one painted black and the other not yet.
Example of Completed and Not-painted Faux Wrought Iron Fence.
Faux Wrought Iron Fence

Halloween DIY – Faux Wrought Iron Cemetery Fence

This provides the materials and steps needed to construct a 3" long section of faux wrought iron fencing. We will be using this to surround our Halloween DIY coffin.
Prep Time 30 mins
Assembly and Paint 1 hr
Total Time 1 hr 30 mins

Equipment

  • Cordless Drill
  • 1 3/8" Hole Saw or Drill bit
  • 5/8" Hole Saw or Drill bit
  • Combo or Miter Saw

Ingredients
  

  • 2 1" x 1.5" x 3'
  • 2 1" x 42" PVC tubing For end tubing
  • 5 1/2" x 34" to 38" For inner tubing
  • 1 Box 1 1/4" wood screws
  • 1 Can Paint, Black Spray
  • 2 2' rebar or other stake Used to put 1" PVC sides of fence on top of to hold fence in place.

Instructions
 

  • Cut 1 x 3" board in half at 36" long.
  • Cut 2 pieces of 1" PVC 42" long.
  • Cut 5 pieces of 1/2" anywhere between 34" and 38"
  • Take 1.5" boards 36" long and clamp together (one on top of the other).
  • At 2" from both ends, drill 1 3/8 or similar size hole through both clamped boards. This will allow the 1" tubing to be threaded through.
  • At every 6" interval, from the end, drill a 5/8" or similar size hole through both clamped boards. This will allow the 1/2" tubing to be threaded through.
  • Drill a 1/4" countersink on the side of each hole drilled into the boards to allow less crush when drilling in the screws to secure the PVC tubing.
  • Screw both 1" tubing pieces at both ends of the two boards.
  • Thread through the 1/2" tubing in the remaining 5 holes.
  • Screw all 5 x 1/2" tubing to the board but alternate the height so they are not even. Do this on both ends.
  • Spray paint black the entire faux wrought iron fence.
  • Hammer in rebar where you want to locate the fence. Place the 1" PVC over the hammered in rebar.
Keyword Cemetery, Craft, Decoration, DIY, Fence, Halloween, Holiday, PVC, Wood



I’ll make sure to post a picture of it in the front yard all staged out. This was a really fun DIY build and didn’t take too much effort to do. Take advantage of the time you can spend together with your family and make memories. As always, don’t forget to enjoy the simple life! Please let us know how you like this post or have suggestions on future posts.

Remember, if you can dream it, you can do it!

Check out the other Halloween DIY projects:

Please LIKE this post. If you have any COMMENTS or QUESTIONS, please post below. Please SUBSCRIBE to our BLOG for additional great content.

Halloween DIY – Jack-o-Lantern Light-up Box

Halloween is right around the corner. My wife and daughter really have big plans this year for our Halloween decorations. They volunteered me to complete some woodworking projects to help with decorating. Of course, I did as was told and got to work. There are three projects that I have completed and will be staging in the front yard either this weekend or the next. For each project, we will have a post on the BLOG, with details of the build, and a video on our YouTube channel demonstrating how it was built. Sorry, husbands, hopefully I’m not setting you up for a “honey do” as well!

The three projects include:

This BLOG post will focus on the Jack-o-Lantern Light-up box that I’ll build and put lights inside to show the scary face. The YouTube video covering the same is provided here.

Completed Jack-O-Lantern Light-up Boxes with lights on.
Completed Jack-O-Lantern Light-up Boxes with lights on.

Cutting the Wood

Proceed with marking and cutting all the wooden pieces needed for the assembly. Each box requires the following boards:

  • 2 – 10″ by 11 1/2″ for the Bottom and 3rd level top
  • 1 – 8 ” by 7″ for the 2nd level top
  • 1 – 3 5/8″ by 3 5/8″ for the 1st level top
  • 4 – 16″ by 7 1/4″ for the four sides
Cutting lumber needed for Halloween DIY Jack-o-Lantern Light-up box.
Cutting the base boards

Draw and Cut out the Scary Faces

Next step is to draw the eyes, nose and mouth onto one of the side pieces (16″ x 7 1/4″ board). You can be as creative as you want. This is not an artist competition (thank goodness). You just need to draw a face to start out with.

Drawing the scary face for the Halloween DIY Jack-o-Lantern Light-up box.
A “not exactly scary” face, but good enough drawing of one.

You will need to drill a hole into the mouth, nose and both eyes in order to get your jigsaw blade through. I used a 3/4″ bit to drill the holes. Unfortunately, my cordless drill died in process so was forced to pull out a heavy, but powerful, hammer drill. It worked until I remembered I had a really old cordless drill that still works with the same batteries.

Cutting a hole to fit the jigsaw in order to cut the eyes, nose and mouth on the Jack-o-Lantern Light-up box.
Drilling holes into face to use the Jigsaw to cut facial features.

Now that we have he holes cut, we can cut out all the facial features with the jigsaw.

Using the jigsaw to cut the eyes, nose, and mouth for the Jack-o-Lantern Light-up box.
Cutting the facial features with the jigsaw
Completed cut-out face for the Halloween DIY Jack-o-Lantern Light-up box.
Completed “scary” face

Assembling the Light-up Box

The first part of the assembly is to screw together all four sides. These are the 16″ x 7 1/4″ boards.

Screwing the box boards together for the Halloween DIY Jack-o-Lantern Light-up box.
Screwing the box together
Screwing the box boards together for the Halloween DIY Jack-o-Lantern Light-up box.
Screwing the box together
Screwing the box boards together for the Halloween DIY Jack-o-Lantern Light-up box.
Getting the base ready to install
Screwing the box boards together for the Halloween DIY Jack-o-Lantern Light-up box.
Center top pieces and screw into 3rd level top board

Final Construction

Use wood filler to fill in the indentations that the wood screws leave as they are screwed through the top of the box. Once dried, use some #220 sandpaper to sand it to a smooth finish.

Putting wood filler into holes on top of Halloween DIY Jack-o-Lantern Light-up box.
Applying the wood filler to the wood screw holes

Spray paint the box black so only the face will show when light is projecting inside the box.

Attaching the Lights

The led lights I choose operate using a remote control and can be set on a timer. They run on three AAA batteries. The lights can be setup to be white or will rotate through a number of colors. I found these on Amazon. They seem to work pretty well but have no idea on how long the batteries will last. We will find out pretty soon.

They come with a 3M double-sided sticker that I used to attach to the inside bottom of the top.

Installing the puck lights on the inside bottom of the Jack-o-Lantern Light-up box top.
Lights attached to inside bottom of the top.

Completed Light-up Box

This was really a pretty simple project to put together. All we have to do at this point is to paint the boxes. I am painting them black.

Three Halloween DIY Jack-o-Lantern Light-up boxes.  One painted and the other two ready to be painted.
One finished and two ready to be painted black.

I finished this project with 3 total Jack-o-Latern Light-up boxes. The final product is shown below:

Completed Halloween DIY Jack-o-Lantern Light-up boxes ready to be staged in the front yard as part of the Halloween decorations.
Completed Jack-o-Lantern Light-up Box with lights installed.

Halloween Jack-o-Lantern Light-up Box

A box with a scary jack-o-lantern face backlit so the face is illuminated at night.
Keyword: Craft, DIY, Halloween, Holiday, Light-up, Lightbox, Project, Scary, Wood, Woodwork, Woodworking

Equipment

  • Combo Saw or other type of saw
  • Cordless Drill
  • Square, for marking measurements on board
  • Pencil, for marking measurements on board

Materials

  • 2 1 x 12 Board Cut 10" x 11 and 1/2" 3rd Level Top and Bottom
  • 1 1 x 8 Board Cut 8" x 7" 2nd Level Top
  • 1 1 x 4 Board Cut 3 and 5/8" x 3 and 5/8" 1st Level Top
  • 4 1 x 8 Cut 16" x 7 and 1/4"
  • 1 Can Paint, Black Spray
  • 1 Wood Filler To fill in wood screw holes on top
  • 4 1 and 3/4" #8 Wood Screws For screwing together top
  • 1 box 1 and 1/4" #8 Wood Screws For screwing everything else together
  • 1 Sandpaper, #220 grit
  • 3 – 6 Lights, Puck (Battery operated) To light up the box

Instructions

  • Measure and cut 2 boards with measurements of 10" by 11 1/2" from a 1" x 12" board.
  • Measure and cut 1 board with measurements of 8" x 7" from a 1 x 8 board.
  • Measure and cut 1 board with measurements of 3 5/8" by 3 5/8".
  • Measure and cut 4 boards with measurements of 16" by 7 1/4" from a 1 x 8 board.
  • Ensure you sand the edges with some #220 grit sandpaper to make sure you don't get any splinters while working with the wood.
  • Draw scary face with eyes, nose and mouth on one of the 16" by 7 1/4" boards. Be as creative or artistic as you desire.
  • Use 3/4" drill bit to drill holes inside of the eyes, nose and mouth drawn on your board.
  • Use jigsaw to cut out your design for the eyes, nose and mouth.
  • Use 1 1/4" screws to assemble the 4 sides into a box.
  • Center bottom board and faster to bottom of box with screws.
  • Center first and second level top boards over the 3rd level top board. Use 1 3/4" wood screws to secure all three boards in position for the top.
  • Apply wood filler or putty in the hoses left on the top board. Let dry and sand to a smooth finish.
  • Apply black spray paint to entire Light-up box.
  • Install lights on inside bottom of top.
  • Setup out where you want the boxes and enjoy your handiwork!


I’ll make sure to post a picture of it in the front yard all staged out. This was a really fun DIY build and didn’t take too much effort to do. Take advantage of the time you can spend together with your family and make memories. As always, don’t forget to enjoy the simple life! Please let us know how you like this post or have suggestions on future posts.

Remember, if you can dream it, you can do it!

Check out the other Halloween DIY projects:

Please LIKE this post. If you have any COMMENTS or QUESTIONS, please post below. Please SUBSCRIBE to our BLOG for additional great content.

Easy Rustic Headboard Build

An important part of living a simple life is doing things yourself so you know it’s done right and the way you want it.  That was my approach while constructing our DIY rustic headboards for our queen size beds.  We love the look of stained wood and feel it really compliments the bedrooms where they reside.  Being this is a rustic look, don’t worry about the most expensive cuts of lumber. Pick wood that have some character. Constructing the headboard is quite easy and straightforward even for a beginner carpenter.  The same plan can be adjusted if you want to build this for other size bed frames. So, if you are ready, lets get started. 

DIY Headboard
Completed rustic stained and protected queen headboard

To build this headboard for your queen bed, you will need the following:

1 – 2 x 4 cut 65 inches long4 Carriage bolts, with nuts and washers (5/16”)
8 – 2 x 4’s cut 63 inches long1 drill bit for carriage bolts (3/8”)
2 – 2 x 6’s cut 53 inches longSandpaper (220 grit) or electric hand sander
1 – 1 x 3 cut 64 inches longDark Walnut MINWAX Stain or one of your choice
2 ½ inch wood screwsScrap cloth to apply and remove stain
1 drill bit slightly smaller than wood screwsMINWAX Fast drying Polyurethane Clear Satin
Cordless DrillCheap brush to apply Polyurethane
Carpenter Square, Speed or combo

Instructions:

To start off, cut all the wood needed for this project.  I personally use a Kobalt compound miter saw but any kind of saw would work. 

DIY Headboard

  • Use the sandpaper or an electric hand sander to clean up the cut edges from any splinters.
  • To assemble, lay face down your 2 x 6’s.  Place one of you 2 x 4’s cut at 63” across the top of the 2 x 6’s as shown:
  • Use your carpenter’s square to ensure 2 x 4 is squared up with 2 x 6’s.  Use wood screws to install 2 x 4 to 2 x 6’s.  Install the remaining 6 x 2 x 4’s. 
DIY Headboard
  • Now you are ready to install the top pieces.  Take you 1 x 3 board cut at 64 inches and place it so that it extends on the sides by ½ inch and even with the front of the 2 x 6.
  • Next, screw down the 2 x 4 cut at 65 inches long, lined up ½ inch over the sides of the 1 x 3, and 1 inch forward of the 1 x 3. Make sure you keep the screws back so you stay within the wood. If you locate the screw too much forward, it will go through the top 2 x 4, then the 1 x 3, but miss the 2 x 4 below it allowing the bottom of the screw to be seen from the front. Yes, I screwed this up on my first headboard, so go ahead and laugh.
DIY Headboard Sand Wood Filler
  • Next, apply wood filler to the holes where you screwed down the top. Once the wood filler dries, use 220 grit sandpaper to smooth off the wood filler to the wood surface. You won’t even notice it once you stain and polyurethane it.
DIY Headboard Sand Wood Filler

  • Before you apply the stain, brush on some “pre-stain” which allows the stain to be more consistent and helps bring out the character of the wood.
  • Our next step is to apply the stain.  Use a scrap rag like a cotton t-shirt.  Dip the cloth in stain and apply over the surface of the wood.  Don’t over apply but put adequate stain to cover all the wood.  You may need to work it in a bit more in areas of the wood like knots and in between boards. I typically work in sections covering the sides, top, then front.  You do not have to apply too much at a time.  Just make sure you get stain everywhere.  Apply it in sections and use a clean scrap rag to wipe off excess stain before it dries.  Let it dry 4 to 6 hours in between coats.
  • Apply another coat of stain and remove excess.  Apply as many coats of the stain until you get the desired color or stain your are trying to achieve.
DIY Headboard Stain
  • Next, use a cheap brush to apply the polyurethane.  Just make sure you are looking for any bristles that may come off and remove. Let dry for 4 – 6 hours.
DIY Headboard Polyurethane
  • Use 220 grit sandpaper and lightly sand the polyurethane to remove bubbles and ensure smooth application of the polyurethane.
DIY Headboard Polyurethane
  • Apply a second coat.  I usually stop here at 2 coats.
DIY Headboard Polyurethane
  • Next, take you headboard and stand next to the bedframe and measure out where to drill bolt holes in the 2 x 6 legs.  You can do this with a tape measure. The 2 x 6’s are 63″ from outside of one to the outside of the other. You would measure center of the bolt hole slots on the bed frame which in my case was 59″. So 63″ minus 59″ is 4″. Therefore, the holes would need to be drilled 2 inches from the outside of both 2 x 6’s. The slots were also 4 3/8″ and 7 3/8″ up so I mark the board there and drill. If not comfortable with using the measuring tape, place the headboard where it will go and mark on the wood where to drill the legs.
DIY Headboard Installation
Measuring the length to drill bolt holes
DIY Headboard Installation
Measuring the height for the bolt holes
  • Drill the holes
DIY Headboard Installation
Drilling the bolt holes
  • Insert carriage bolt into the drilled holes from the back of the headboard through the metal slots in the bed frame.  Put washer and nut on end of bolt and tighten.  An alternative method would be to use screws and sheetrock anchors to install the headboard directly to the wall.
DIY Headboard Installation
Bolting the headboard to the bed frame
DIY Headboard Complete
Headboard and bed moved into position

Now, tonight, you can lay down and go to sleep well knowing that you have built a quality headboard made with your own two hands and saved a couple hundred dollars.  Enjoy the simple life! Please let us know how you like this post or have suggestions on future posts.

Remember, if you can dream it, you can do it!

Please LIKE this post. If you have any COMMENTS or QUESTIONS, please post below. Please SUBSCRIBE to our BLOG for additional great content.